The 35 miles to Keld couldn't be more of a contrast with the Lake District, but Eric Robson discovers that, in AW's company, they're walking through more than 2,000 years of history. In doing so, they cross the Pennine watershed to enter Swaledale—first visited by Wainwright more than 50 years ago, and still his favourite Yorkshire dale.

• Alfred Wainwright
• Eric Robson