Alexander made an encampment here in the foothills of the Hindu Kush. The Russians did as well, establishing their main base here during the Afghan war. It was also the site of one of the greatest archeological finds of this century. Here, diggers uncovered the remains of a great city whose cultural roots were in Greece. The treasures in its storehouses there were incredible: Alexandrian glass, Chinese lacquer, Hindu ivory sculptures -- all testament to the cultural exchanges brought about by Alexander's campaign.

• Michael Wood