Sitting at the toe of Italy, Sicily has a complex history and one that is easily discovered through the food of this vibrant city. Here you can eat sardines stuffed with Arabian nuts and fruits in a backstreet bar, or go into a mountain village inhabited by Albanians and try the best canoloni in the world. Ainsley discovers that this stunningly beautiful and ancient city still struggles with its history and organised crime. Ainsley meets the mafia-fighting Mayor of Palermo, Leoluca Orlando, and has a bizarre chat about his love of Sicilian food in a market street once controlled by the mafia. Luckily, they are surrounded by armed guards throughout the interview! Ainsley tries the fritto misto (fried fish and vegetables in a light batter) and golden balls of arancini stuffed with smoked ham and mozzarella. But there are horrors too - spleen sandwich and a mysterious ‘meat’ sold from a covered basket that no-one is allowed to look in. Afterward, Ainsley cooks as the locals do, with seasonal ingredients. The menu includes fresh tuna with artichokes and broad beans, stuffed sardines and a very local pistachio pesto sauce.

• Ainsley Harriott